Picks by Mark Wiens in Paris

6 places Mark Wiens went to in Paris — what they said, and what to watch out for.

• Du Pain et des Idées — Mark Wiens
  A deeply buttery croissant, crisp outside and noticeably denser and heavier inside than most, an escargot layered with pistachio cream and chocolate, and the signature loaf with its crackling crust and airy, open crumb — all of it, in his words, top-tier pastry.
  Heads up: He'd heard the line stretches well outside the shop, so he recommends going early in the morning.
• Caractère de Cochon — Mark Wiens
  A thick layer of butter, paper-thin folds of ham, and a baguette that's crackling outside and pillowy inside — a combination he says "gives you a whole new perspective on the ham sandwich." Refined, best-in-class, and highly recommended.
  Heads up: Both versions — the cooked ham and the aged ham — are excellent, so he suggests trying both (pick whichever suits your mood).
• Marché couvert des Enfants Rouges — Mark Wiens
  Introduced as the oldest food market in Paris and a place to eat some seriously iconic food.
• Joséphine Chez Dumonet — Mark Wiens
  The pigeon layered with thin sheets of potato was his number-one bite of the entire 24-hour tour, the bœuf bourguignon — beef cheek braised for 18 hours — was "one of the best beef stews of my life," and the soufflé, as big as his head, was "the best ever." He also praised the chef and the service as warm and full of good humor.
  Heads up: Reservations are required and it's expensive at €265 for three; the mille-feuille is made to order on the spot, so you need to order it in advance.
• Bistrot Paul Bert — Mark Wiens
  He called the pepper sauce "one of the best sauces for meat I've ever had in my life," and singled out the meltingly tender filet steak, the freshly fried potatoes that arrived still radiating heat, and an intensely fragrant morel-and-egg dish as the highlights.
  Heads up: He went with a noon reservation — booking is required, and at €203.50 for three people, it's on the pricey side.
• LULU Crêperie — Mark Wiens
  A thin, delicate buckwheat galette with melted cheese, a caramelized cheese crust on the bottom, fragrant sautéed mushrooms and ham, and crisp greens — a perfectly balanced plate he described as "unbelievably good."
  Heads up: The portion is far bigger than expected — this is a full meal, not a snack.

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